Add Chopsticks to Your Toolbox

Have you ever tried to retrieve a small part from deep within a chassis? You might've wished you had a long slender pair of tongs, pliers or tweezers to reach down and grab it with. You do. That tool is a pair of chopsticks.

It helps if you know how to use chopsticks, but don't worry if don't. It's easy to fashion them into a pair of "tweezer-sticks" as shown in Figure 1, below. All you need is an elastic band (aka rubberband) and a make-shift fulcrum, such as the wrapper the chopsticks came in (rolled up into a compact wad).

I've used this tool to...

• get a pebble from out of a garbage disposal
• pick spent blossoms, a Maple tree seed or a hungry beetle from potted plants when the growth is too dense to get my fingers through
• remove part of a Pop-Tart from a toaster (Figure 2)

I have, in fact, used a pair of twigs for a crude application of this idea, such as when I picked up a dead mouse that was in a flower bed.

But if you need to remove a wedding ring from the glowing coals of a charcoal grill, be sure to soak them in water beforehand.

How I Dealt With Yellow Well Water

We lost electrical power when a line of severe thunderstorms swept across our state.  When the power came back 18 hours later, I was surprised to learn that our well water tank still was under pressure – we hadn’t run out of water!

I also was surprised when I refilled the dog’s water dish – the water was yellow!  The first photo below shows two bottles of water.  The one on the left was filled prior to the power outage; the one on the right, after.

There was no foul odor; no odor whatsoever, in fact.  The taste was off, though, as if “softened” by some salt.

My guess is that some silt or rust had been stirred up in the tank when the pump kicked in.  The lower-than-usual tank pressure allowed the ingress of water at a higher velocity.

I figured it would clear up on its own in a few days.  But my wife, who suffers from bizarre medical problems as well as anxiety, kept insisting that we call for service first thing Monday.  Lucky for me she didn’t know whom to call, nor did she know that they respond to emergency calls.  I was afraid that the technician would convince my wife that we needed a special filtration system.  And, of course, emergency calls cost more.

So I decided to flush the tank.

This is extremely easy to do, if you know where things are and you have a short garden hose.  Alas, my garden hose is 100’ – lugging it into the basement wasn’t too bad.  But getting it back upstairs when it was full of water was the most difficult part of the job.

I closed the valve for the house supply and switched off power to the pump.   As well, I flushed the basement toilet (just because I needed to).  Then I attached the hose to the spigot at the bottom of the tank, opened its valve and directed the water into a white basin.  I was impressed by how clear and colorless the water looked.  I let the water drain into the washing machine while I opened a few other taps around the house.

Once the pressure dropped noticeably, I reapplied power to the pump and let it right like that for a short while.  Satisfied, I closed the valve to the hose and opened the valve to the house.  I went back to those open taps and closed them.  As well, I cleaned the toilet to get out the residue and flushed, getting clear water again.

Finally, I enjoyed a refreshing glass of clear, colorless, cool well water.  Which is what I look forward to most after a power outage.

A Wordle in Honour of Towel Day

Here's a Wordle devoted to Towel Day.

You can find out more about Towel Day here:

https://www.towelday.org/

Simple Washing Machine Improvement

A medium load of laundry had been taking over an hour to finish.  When I watched the tub fill with cold water, it looked like effluence from a down spout during a gentle summer rain shower.

I knew the machine had filters for the water, and I suspected they needed to be cleaned, but I wasn't sure where they were.  It turns out that the filters were easily accessible; all I had to do was shut off the water and unscrew the hoses at the machine.  Then just pull out the filters with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

When I did this, I saw that the cold water filter was extremely clogged with metal bits.  I get a lot of this kind of debris from my well water; it gets trapped in the faucet aerators, too.

I submerged the filter in a small cup of vinegar, shaking it vigorously, until it looked mostly clear.

The next load of laundry went so much more quickly.  An added benefit was that the solid dark clothes no longer were left mottled with a sludge of gray lint.

Have you ever cleaned your washing machine's water intake filters?  Do an Internet search to see just how easy it is!

Too Much Soap – Too Much Trouble

The effect of using too much laundry detergent makes for a funny, suds-filled scene in the movies.  But the real problem occurs the next time someone does laundry.  All those suds fill the drain line causing turbulence during the rinse cycle, which leads to an overflowing filler tube and a flooded laundry room.

I’d been trying to get my wife to measure the detergent with the cap according to the label.  But she always felt the need to do it her way.  And her way has been to pour the detergent directly into the washer tub, as if adding creamer into coffee.  We’d usually get some overflow in the drain line, and suds would emerge in the adjacent shower.

It’s for this reason I would always buy the cheapest (most watered-down) detergent.  Unfortunately, one day she decided to buy some ultra-concentrated product.  The flood from repeated washings was significant.

I cleaned it up and then set up an electric heater to dry out what I couldn’t remove.  In order to plug in the heater, I unplugged the washer.  So my wife was prevented from running the washer for a few weeks.  That gave me time to snake the drain line (just in case) and run several wash loads with the correct amount of soap.  After a couple of loads, the machine drained better than it ever had before.  I left it this way for a couple of weeks.  In fact, she got mad about that – she wanted to do laundry herself.  Imagine, someone offers to do the laundry for you and you get mad because you can’t do it yourself!

Eventually she settled down enough that she was willing to show her the proper way to:
1. Read the label.
2. Pour the correct amount into the measuring cup.
3. Pour the measured amount from the cup into the tub.
4. Not rinse the cap under the running water.
5. Load the tub right away with clothes.

The last two points are also important.  If you place the cap under the gushing water, suds will form.  Also, if you don’t put the clothes in right away suds will form.  I actually add the detergent after loading all the clothes, making sure to pour it into the water farthest from the water source.

It was amazing that my wife watched and listened to me patiently while I demonstrated the correct way to do laundry.  I didn’t think it was possible.  But it happened, and it felt like my birthday, Christmas and Father’s Day all lumped into one!  Even more amazing is that she’s been doing a lot of laundry over the past couple of weeks, and we’ve had no overflowing water or subs in the shower.  Still, I’m keeping the ultra-concentrated detergent out of sight indefinitely.

Hard Drive Thrashing? Maybe It's Windows Update

In a previous post, I wondered if my computer problems were due to AntiVirus interfering with Windows Update.

Perhaps.  But there's definitely a problem with Windows Update. The following seemed to get rid of the excessive and endless thrashing of the hard drive:

http://www.cagedrat.com/microsoft-windows/microsoft-windows-updates-cab-files-filling-up-hard-drive/

And yes, I plug in my computer and set it to Stay Awake before downloading and installing updates.

Notes on Setting Up Windows 7

Recently I had to set up fresh installations of Windows 7 on two computers.  Here are some tips to make that process go a bit smoother...

1. Windows Update #1 -- Microsoft has released hundreds of recommended and important updates for Windows 7 since it was introduced.  All that data is a burden for Windows Update, and the update process can bog down on slower computers.  To remedy this, you'll want to download the update associated with KB3102810 first before you even check for updates.  Adjusting your computer's Power Options so it stays awake during the long update process may also help.

2. Windows Update #2 -- I wrote about this before.  Unless you want to upgrade to Windows 10, you'll want to hide the update KB3035583, or uninstall it if it already got onto your system.

3.  Gadgets -- Third party gadgets are no longer supported due to "serious vulnerabilities" in the Windows Sidebar.  You'll still be able to add the default Microsoft ones, such as "Clock," "Calendar," "Slide Show" and "CPU Usage" (my favorites).  But I also liked the third party "Network Meter," which I'd use often to verify download rates.  Since Network Meter is no longer available, I figured out that I can use ResMon to do something similar.  To have ResMon (almost) mimic Network Meter I minimize the various components in the left pane of ResMon and resize the window so that only the network graphs show up.  And I add a shortcut to ResMon.exe in my StartUp folder.

Do you have any tips for setting up Windows 7?  Please share them!

Undo the Default App Selection in Android

Here's the scenario....  Your Android device presents you with a choice of apps to complete an action with.  You're supposed to select the app and then select either "Just Once" or "Always."  Either way the app opens to complete the action.

If you selected "Just Once" you'll have to choose again the next time you need to complete that same action.  That might seem annoying.  But what if it's the wrong choice?  If you choose "Always" you won't get to choose again, at least not easily.  And if the app cannot complete the action successfully, what then?

According to many lame blog posts and webzine articles, it's "easy" to change your mind after choosing "Always."  They say to just press the app's "Clear Defaults" button.  Here's one such article on AndroidCentral.

Fortunately AndroidCentral is swarming with brilliant users who are much more sophisticated than the folks who write the articles.  I say "fortunately" because when I needed to change the option of using Photos for downloading an image file attachment, the article's advice was useless because Photos' "Clear Defaults" button was greyed out.

A user called Siddhartha Gupta suggested that to remove Photos as the default app, it's necessary to change the setting for Google+.  That didn't work, either.

A user called ChromeJob pointed out that there's "a 'reset app preferences' in the action overflow button. This appears to reset ALL default app choices at once."  If only it were that easy for me.  It didn't work.

The thing that finally worked for me was to revert to the factory version of Photos by pressing the "Uninstall Updates" button.  After doing that, I was presented with a choice of two other apps to use.  The idea to alter Photos' version came to me after reading a comment byGrillMouster who stated that "when any of those apps receive an update the ["Just Once" / "Always"] dialog will pop up again, even if you had previously set an app as the default."

If you want the very gory details of why Photos didn't work, please read on to find out what I was trying to do.

I had used Firefox to log in to an Exchange Server using an Outlook Web Access (OWA) client hosted on a web page.  I then opened an e-mail that had a JPG file attached to it.  When I attempted to download the attachment, OWA again wanted me to provide my username and password.  Photos was unable to handle that request (and neither was Firefox).  It was only by completing the action with ES File Explorer File Manager that I found out about the need to provide username and password.  I've included this detail in case there are others who are having trouble downloading attachments with OWA.

My Recent Repair of a Laptop AC Adpater

Yesterday, my laptop wouldn't charge when I plugged it in.  The battery had drained overnight, so the laptop was unusable.  I quickly figured out that the AC adapter has suddenly stopped working.

My nearby Staples had a universal adapter in stock at 20% off, so I picked it up and was soon back in business.

But then I wondered why the "old" adapter had failed. The technician at Staples said that most fail due to a broken wire near the connector that plugs in to the computer.  I know that if you flex any wire enough that it will break.  But this computer was kept in the kitchen at home, and the cable stayed in one place most of the time.  I decided to take it apart and fix it.

Most of the repair guides for Laptop AC Adapters resolve a break or short in the wire at one of the ends of the DC cable.  One even recommends that you cut off the connector, and splice a new connector on, which is silly given that no casual user has a spare connector lying around.  This same guide says that if there's no voltage after cutting off the connector, the adapter is dead and you have to buy a new one.  Turns out, that's not true at all.

My repair approach was different.  I decided that I would crack open the adapter housing and then verify continuity from the circuit board to the connector with a DMM.  But as soon as I removed the housing, I saw the problem: Cold Solder Joints.  Whoever soldered the wires to the circuit board failed to thoroughly heat up both the pad and the wire.  So the solder didn't flow down the via hole and fully coat the wire.  This never would have passed inspection at my company.

I fired up my soldering iron and reflowed the three connections in less than two minutes.  It took at least five times longer for me to break open the housing.  Message to manufacturers of consumer electronics: If you won't bother to assemble the electronics properly, at least design the housings so that they're easy to take apart and put back together!  I glued it back together with RTV, and it's curing as I write this.

I've fixed several items with this type of reflow repair, including a fairly expensive audio receiver.  A soldering iron and the ability to use it can keep you from throwing out perfectly good electronics.

When Flourescent Lights Go Bad

Fluorescent lights produce a lot of light for little power.  My kitchen lights, which use two T9 bulbs, are rated at 32W, 2400lm and 22W, 1400lm¹.  The bulbs are expensive and not easy to find, but they supposedly last five years.

The problem is that the performance and longevity of fluorescent lights depends on the ballast.  This is an electrical module that conditions the current, and it's not 100% efficient.  Also the ballast will degrade and eventually need to be replaced.  Sometimes a faulty ballast makes itself evident when the light flickers, or when the light doesn't turn on immediately and you need to flip the light switch off and on to get it to light.  At this point the bulbs will burn out quickly.

The ballast is even more expensive and harder to find than the bulbs.  And replacing the ballast isn't meant to be done by the consumer, although a home owner who can replace a light switch or electrical outlet will be able to replace a ballast in about ten minutes if the fixture is designed well.

I mention all this because I again find it necessary to replace the ballasts in the two kitchen lights.  In fact, I was thinking of replacing these fixtures with new fixtures that have multiple sockets for standard (Edison screw) bulbs.  I figured this was a better long-range solution because it would allow me to use Compact Fluorescent Bulbs today and then eventually graduate to LED bulbs.  Never again would I need to search for the expensive ballasts and replace them.

But I did manage to find the ballasts for quite a reasonable price.  So it didn't make sense to replace them this time.  But in ten years, if I'm still in this house, I think I'll be buying new fixtures.

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¹ For a comparison of the lighting efficiency of various types of bulbs, please see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy#Lighting_efficiency.

Trials with an Old Computer

About six years ago, I mused about what to do with an old computer, a 500MHz Pentium III.  My idea was to reformat the hard drive (20GB) and install one of these operating systems: Windows 2000 (already obsolete); Windows XP (facing obsolescence); and Linux (Ubuntu, although I don't recall why I decided on that flavor).

I tried all three plus Dyne:bolic, a Linux variant specialized for music and video production on under-powered computers.  Here's how I fared....

Dyne:bolic was easy to try out, and I didn't have to reformat the Window NT drive to do it.  So I tried it first.  After downloading version 2, I burned the ISO image to a CD.  It booted up just fine and I ran it from the CD.  It performed well, but it was set up for a single root-level user, and it wouldn't "play" Flash content.

Next was XP.  The first problem I had was that I couldn't activate the OS, even though I had a valid key.  But I played around with it anyway during the evaluation period.  Just twenty minutes was enough to know it would be way too slow.

Then I installed Windows 2000.  This involved a lot of tedious business with multiple CDs for the OS itself, then Service Pack 6 and then more CDs with security software and utilities.  Everything went well until I installed the antivirus program and updated it.  After that, the OS would not start.

Finally I decided to give Linux a try.  Rather than download images files, I decided to search the local public library system for Linux books that had accompanying CDs.  And I limited my search to old books, too, since I really needed the installer to be on CD-ROMs and not a DVD.  There were some Red Hat Linux books, so I got one and tried it.  It installed and ran really well except for the web browser, Mozilla, which had me pressing Ctrl-Alt-Del and longing for Task Manager to come up so I could kill it.

Of these four options, Dyne:bolic was clearly the best.  Unfortunately, by the time I got around to realizing it, Jaromil released version 3.0.0, whose 1.6GB image now must be burned onto DVD, not CD.  (I can't find the CD that had version 2 on it. And booting from USB is not an option in this computer's BIOS.)  This latest Dyne:bolic is totally awesome -- I tried the Live CD on my main home desktop (a P4), and I created a small virtual machine on my work computer, which boots the image file.

In order to run D:B3 on my PIII, I need a DVD drive.  Since I had two on my main desktop, I removed one and installed it on the PIII.  But, alas, it didn't work.  The computer detected the drive, but it won't boot from it, and Linux won't mount it.  So I think the laser is shot.  I've encountered a few non-functioning DVD drives in this manufacturer's computers, so I really do think the drive is defective.  In fact I wasn't able to boot from the drive recently when it was in the P4 that I took it out of.

So this is where I am now.  I need a working IDE DVD drive, which are expensive and/or refurbished.  There are adapters that can convert a SATA drive to IDE, but that's an extra expense I didn't want to pay.  Plus, I'm not sure this small form factor case will have any room for it, although I can put the new SATA drive with IDE adapter into the main desktop and move the working IDE DVD drive from the main desktop to the PIII if I really had to.

If / when I clear this hurdle I'll check in again.  Hopefully D:B3 will still be available!

Creative Door Repair

The back door of our home never quite opened and closed smoothly. It was necessary to lift the doorknob while closing it in order to prevent the bottom from scraping the threshold.

Very recently the upper hinge pulled completely away from the door frame.  My wife and daughter couldn't finesse the door closed any more.  I re-tightened the screws, but the holes for the screws had widened, so the screw threads no longer had enough wood to bite into.  The hinge wouldn't stay secure for long.

My first impulse was to replace the screws with longer ones of the same diameter.  But not finding any in my collection, I realized I would have to visit the hardware store.

I really enjoy going to the hardware store.  Not the big, nation-wide chain stores like Home Depot or Lowes, though.  I prefer the small, neighborhood shops that seem to carry the odd-ball bits of fixture parts that were used in our neighborhood over fifty years ago when our homes were built.  Our stores are usually staffed by a retired handyman or engineer.  Or maybe the guy just likes hanging out there, giving out free advice without even getting paid for it.

Alas I was too busy to make the trip.  So I busied my mind, thinking of alternative repair options while carrying out the many tedious chores I had to deal with.

My next idea was to plug the screw holes with wooden dowels.  In fact I had many ¼ inch dowel pins left over from an old wood-working project.  I could use those.  But because they were much larger than the screws and the holes, I'd have to drill out the holes first before inserting the pins.  And then I'd have to drill pilot holes into the dowels themselves so that I could get the screws into the pins.  And I'd probably have to use carpenter's glue to hold the dowel pin in place before drilling.

If I had much smaller dowels, I could simply stick them into the holes and jam the screws in.  This would certainly be enough to keep the screws fastened tightly.  But because I didn't have the smaller dowels, I'd have to go to the hardware anyway.

Finally the solution came to me.  I had all the dowels I needed right outside my door!  All I had to do was stroll through the wooded area of our yard to find the right size twig.  Which I did.  It took about 30 seconds.

One oak twig about four inches long was enough to fill all four screw holes.  I broke the twig into four pieces and inserted them into the holes and tightened the screws.

And now the door opens and closes easily, without needing to be lifted, and without scraping the bottom.

This to me is what makes home repair an art form.

Putting Water Adhesion and Cohesion to Work

I lost the grommet that allows me to attach a drain hose to my air conditioner.  So I decided to see whether water's properties of adhesion and cohesion would come to my rescue.

I suspended the drain hose below the air condition drain opening.  Then I placed one end of a wet, rolled up paper towel in the air conditioner, touching the drain pan.  I placed the other end into the hose.  The set up is shown below.

Normally, you'd just let the water drip out onto the ground.  But this A/C is installed between a kitchen and a carpeted enclosed porch, and we wanted to keep the carpet dry.

The rig works like a charm.  No spillage.  All the condensate ends up in the bottle, which I then empty into the washing machine or the garden.  In fact it works better than if I'd used a grommet to connect the hose.  With the grommet, the water level had to rise high enough to breach the rim of the grommet.  In fact, I used to put a piece of cotton string in the grommet to help lift the water up over the grommet ledge and into the hose.  Otherwise, the water would leak out all four corners of the pan.

There is some rust forming around the edge of that unfinished knockout.  I'll need to paint that at the end of the season if I don't want the rust to spread.